Sunday, May 31, 2009

Re-entry


At home, I carry my suitcase through my apartment and out onto the terrace, then pull my clothes out and carry them directly into the washing machine. Anything that's not washable (such as my passport) I put in a ziplock baggie and put in the freezer -- I'm not suddenly getting eccentric, I just figure that if there are any bugs the cold will kill them. And then I put myself in the shower. YAAAAYYYYYYY!!!!!

The next day is weird. By 9 o'clock in the morning I realize I'm in a different world.
  • Hot shower!
  • Clean clothes
  • Sleeping in a room by myself
  • Taking the train, and traveling in a seat rather than sitting on the floor
  • Stopping for a smoothie on the way to work, and being almost paralyzed at having to choose between 31 varieties
  • Opening the bag with my smoothie and finding that they gave me 6 napkins. 6!
  • Throwing the trash in a trash basket
  • I'm in public wearing pants instead of a long skirt.
  • Walking by thousands of people, but no one greets me. So one says 'Bon dia', or 'Salama Mama'. No one smiles. No one runs up and holds my hand.
  • I get to work, and enjoy the amenities of the ladies room -- hot and cold running water, and flush toilets, and abundant toilet paper.
I'm experiencing culture shock, and I still have to make it through the rest of the day.

Leaving Day


Today we are supposed to finish cleaning the visitors' area, and then it is time to give our last minute donations to the orphanage. I've decided to donate the little suitcase that had the bug repellent spilled in it, and so I need to also donate enough of my clothes and stuff to get everything else in my remaining suitcase. We are encouraged to leave anything we don't need, and to not feel embarrassed to give something that is old or dirty. They can make use of almost anything. For example, they said that they like to give each child a suitcase, so they can use it instead of a dresser drawer. Thus, it doesn't matter if the wheels don't turn nicely anymore, ore if it has a bit of a rip.

Since we cleaned the gazebo last night, I actually have some free time. I go to the prayer gazebo where Joseph is playing some worship songs. It is a good time to jsut sit and listen.

A girl comes to sit by me -- maybe 11 years old. She is eager to be loved and tries different ways of draping herself on me. She is fascinated by my fanny pack, and really wants to open the zippers. I watch to make sure she isn't taking anything, and try teaching her the words 'close' and 'open', then ask her to close it. Then she tries to open my camera case, and even says the word 'open?' back to me. So I try saying the word 'close', and she closes it. I'm happy she learned the words, but I'm even happier that the zips are now closed!

She asks my name, then borrows my pen to write it on her hand. No one walks around with paper here, so you either draw with a stick in the dirt, or draw on yourself. I ask her what her own name is, and she is touched almost to tears when I reciprocate by writing it on my hand. Later on, in the airplane I can still see it faintly. A connection across the miles that will fade by tomorrow.

Some little boys come pestering -- they want to chase her off so they can have my attention, but the girls are always outnumbered by the boys, and I've hardly had a conversation with one, so I don't want her to be pushed out. I try placating one of the boys by pouring some of my drink into his bottle when he asks, but it backfires, as all his friends start fighting over the bottle, and want more and more.

Meanwhile, Aysha is happy to just sit by me, as close as she possibly can, leaning over into my lap. Our quiet time together is interrupted by a mischievous little boy who quietly sneaks close, and then paradoxically makes a little noise to get my attention. He is grinning with enjoyment, and I simply smile back, not getting the joke, so then he makes makes exaggerated gestures with his eyes, and succeeds in getting me to look down at his hands, which are busy trying to put a huge bug in my pocket. I jump and scream, and now his joy is complete -- exactly the effect he was looking for!

I go back to help sort the donations. I had brought a brand new sweatshirt that I only wore one evening on the last outreach, but I figure that I don't really need it, so I put it in the pile, not realizing that it was smelling pretty funky from a combination of the cooking fire and my bug repellent. The other people sorting the donations are handing it around sniffing it and trying to figure out the smell. I'm too embarrassed to tell them it's mine, or explain why it is so stinky. After sorting through the clothes, some people go over to the washing sinks to wash the clothes (including the infamous sweatshirt). I go help at the donation closet. I reach in with some rolls of tissue paper, and the missionary exclaims "are those American toilet paper? that is like gold here!"

And finally it is time to jump into the back of the trucks one more time. It is easier this time, as we can finally do away with the capulanas, the long wraparound skirts. Wearing pants makes it much easier to climb over the high tailgate. I hear people around me saying that they are glad to be going home, but I'm surprised to find that I feel different. I'm actually not ready to go. I'm finally acclimated. I still have things I'd like to do here.

As the truck starts up, I suddenly remember my Makhua lesson, and realize that if I substitute 'New York' for 'Tutubue' I can say "goodbye, I'm now leaving to go home to New York". I shout it out, and some of the local Bible students clap at my effort, then wave as we pull out of the gate.

Our last day in Mozambique


[Thanks to Ray who encouraged me to finish the story!]
It's amazing how quickly one's perspective changes. At first the orphanage seemed primitive and uncomfortable, but after returning from an outreach to bush village, the orphanage is a bastion of amenities. Sleeping in a bunk bed is positively luxurious after sleeping on the ground. Being able get dressed while standing up is way easier than the contortions inside my tent. And the fact that the water is out is disappointing, but not shocking.

We are suddenly faced with a contrast so abrupt it is almost ludicrous -- our whole group ventures down the road for a luxurious breakfast at a nearby hotel. We were impressed by everything: not just the abundant buffet, but the green lawn, the white tablecloths, and of course ... the bathrooms! Hot and cold running water! toilets that flush! Toilets you are allowed to throw toilet paper into! This is great! We wash our hands over and over, just because we can.

The breakfast is beautiful, but I can't eat much, as my stomach is upset. How ironic, that I can't really take advantage of the one fine meal on the entire trip. But I can't complain too much, as I've been generally healthy. After breakfast, I joined a couple of women to walk back to the orphanage, but then I get a little bit antsy at the amount of shopping they want to do first. I'm just not a normal tourist, I guess.

And finally I'm back in the orphanage, in the worship center, on a dirty mat on the floor, wearing a wraparound skirt on top of my capris. I haven't had a shower since Tuesday (it's now Friday), and my skin has layers of dirt, glued together with sunscreen and bug repellent. And yet even in this we are not living a totally authentic 3rd world experience -- the sunscreen and bug repellent are luxuries, as are the baby wipes that have been substituting for the shower.

This morning, Barbara is speaking. She ministers inner healing and deliverance. Today she preaches on 2 Peter 1. The message is that negative emotions are a signal that one needs more time with Jesus.

I spend the rest of the day not doing too much. My stomach cramps get severe, and I'm worried about how I will manage the flight home, so I finally give in and take the Cipro. Usually I would wait a couple of days to see if it gets better on it's own, but I'm doubled over in pain, and can't imagine flying from Mozambique to South Africa, to Amsterdam, to New York. Between the pills and the prayer, I'm ok by the time I need to travel.

I skip lunch and dinner, and try to help with the final cleanup. We sweep the bedrooms, again and again. I'm not sure if the problem is that the brooms are such poor quality or what, but we keep sweeping out piles of dirt, literally. Again and again. My team is supposed to clean the visitor's gazebo. I'm at a loss for how to deal with the kitchen. The light has been burned out for days, so we're cleaning by flashlight, and the plumbing is still not working, so we have a limited number of buckets of rather slimy dirty water that Scott hauled from the cistern. The refrigerator is truly disgusting. I decide to sacrifice our carefully hoarded paper towels to try to sop up the inch of smelly goo in the bottom, but there is too much goo, so we use a dirty dish towel. I'm realizing how hard it is to clean when you don't have the right cleaning supplies. I never knew that cleanliness was a luxury.

While I'm busy in the kitchen with another helper, the rest of the team is trying to mop the gazebo floor. The finally develop a method where they dump a bucket of muddy water, and then scrub with the push broom, and then squeegee it with big squeegees. I never knew that you could use mud as a cleaning fluid, as long as you squeegee it!